Thinking of having a style colour change????? Use a professional and this is why!!!!!!

After seeing some, shall I say, interesting hair colours lately. I was also inspired by a facebook article I saw from another hairdresser in America! I thought I would give some insight into what a hairdresser is processing in their minds before doing your hair colour!!!!

For example we have a lady with dark brown hair who is wanting to go blonder.........

(images courtesy of Google Images for reference to colour only)


With in that minute we have............

1. looked at your eyecolour and skin tone
2. looked at what colours you wear
3. assessed the condition (highly porous, porous, normal, oily)
4. assessed the hair texture (fine, medium and coarse)
5. assessed scalp condition
6. determine your natural colour in numerous areas of the head (not the same all over)
7. determine you percentage of grey hair in numerous areas of the head (not the same all over)

We will ask you..................

1. do you colour your hair often
2. established you history over the past 2 years
3. ask if you have coloured yourself at home (some colours are harder to remove)
4. establish your home care maintenance
5. establish how you style your own hair
6. establish your target/ goal colour (isn't always achievable first go and keep in good condition at the same time)

Why we do these things.......

1. We look at the underlying pigment (natural warmth in your hair). This effects our colour mix.
2. We also look at natural colour and grey as this also can alter the mix we choose.
3. How you style your hair indicates to us if you will be able to maintain it as well as using the right products at home to maintain it. You don't want to spend alot of money on a colour then not use the right product to make it last. You just wash money down the drain. No colour can be guaranteed if you don't take care of it.
4. Most of what is involved is to keep the hair in the best condition and doing it in stages to monitor and maintain the strength in the hair.
5. Each section of the hair will react differently depending on how much coilour build up. You need to be honest about your history for at least 2 years as it would take that if not longer for any colour to be grown out of medium to longer hair.
6. We may not do the same mix from roots to ends and from front to back. This is why we look at the head all over and from roots to ends. We may do 4 separate colour mixtures to get an even coverage over one head of hair. These might also have two-three colours in each bowl.

 Please remember.....

1. It is not just one colour put in a bowl and same target colour is mixed differently for each person
2. Be honest with your colour history or you could end up with breakage
3. Use the products recommended by your stylist to take care of your hair and get longer out of your colour
4. Use a comb not a brush especially after colour correction to prevent breakage and stretching.
5. The happy lady on the front of the box hair colour still had a professional doing her hair to get the pretty picture and it's called photoshop. DON'T DO IT! You with pay more to fix it than if you went to the hairdresser in the first place.
6. The movie stars spend thousands of dollars and weeks in a salon to change their hair so quickly and a lot of the time have hairpieces or wigs to help. Sometimes by the time we see them from event to event it might be a month between pictures.
7. It is hard work and a lot of maintenance to drastically change your colour so you need to be patient and committed and then you will have a new style and healthy hair at the same time!

I once had someone tell me it is called "Hand Bag Hair". We as hairstylists need to take care of your hair and monitor the process or you will end up taking it home in your hand bag! We train for up to 4 years and know our stuff. We are like hair doctors!!!!! Find a stylist you trust and you won't have an issue.

Happy Hair Day!

Don't Forget to Subscribe to my You Tube Channel at www.youtube.com/sarahcourtneyhair

Organising your hair regime prior to a special event like wedding or formal!!!

How to prepare you hair for your wedding, formal or special event hair!

It is important to plan a schedule for your hair for your special occasion.

Our job as hairdressers is to make you feel comfortable and less stressed. It is important you have trust in your stylist and get to know them and look at pictures of their work. It is important to have an idea of what you like and don't like. Bring ideas of styles and talk with them as they should be able to design a style to suit your face shape, style of dress and vision that you and your stylist has created.  

This is what plan I suggest.........

12 months before

1. In some cases wedding and formal season can be very busy so you need to book or at least talk to a stylist about booking and time frames
2. Look at pictures prior or with a stylist to look at length requirements. Extensions may be required as well as hair padding. Get the right information to be prepared and to budget.

6 Months before

1. Plan on what colour you want and if you are changing hair have pictures to show your stylist and ask how long it will take to get there (eg dark hair to blonde can take 6-12 months to lighten and get to the colour you like).
2. Organise a trial for your hair and make-up. Best to do for a special occasion or if you can try on your dress to see full picture. If you don't normally have nails, waxing or tanning you should trial these things now to avoid reactions and get used to things like nails. (NB. DO NOT wash your hair prior to the hair trial. Wash two nights before and ask your stylist what works best for the selected style. this makes a smoother end result and more manageable hair).

3 months before

1. Look at the condition of your hair and start a treatment program. Conditioning treatments can help the strength and add shine to your hair as well as having a trim at this time to avoid split ends. This makes the style/curls look better.
2. Also look at t a time to book your hair colour and beauty services such as waxing, tans, nails and pedicure.
3. Order or plan for your hair extensions to be ordered and coloured if needed. Speak with your stylist prior. 

1-2 weeks before

1. It is best to get your hair coloured 1-2 weeks before. one week before is best but no more than two and no less than one. This ensures no regrowth if done too soon and allows time for colour to settle or change or adjust prior to event. 
2. If you want to have hair extensions it should also be done at this time. Clip in extensions are a great alternative to add fullness and give the illusion of more hair with out the maintenance. Remember you may need to order before this time.
3. Be sure to have a small trim at his time as the ends of any style/ curls will be neater and look better. 
4. Waxing is best done about 1 week prior so to be rid of wax residue. The residue of wax will effect you spray tan.

1-3 days before

1. This is the time to have beauty services such as nails, lash tinting or lash extensions and tan. 
2. This is when you should last wash your hair. If you are having curls or an upstyle it works best when the hair has natural oil to smooth and is more manageable for your stylist. It is great to even have a shampoo and blow dry at your salon so your  stylist can blow dry more fullness and product into your hair to be more manageable on the day.If you are having a blow dry (shorter hair) you may need to wash or a style having lots of volume. your stylist will instruct you in special circumstances if it needs to be washed prior to an upstyle. (NB if you have lash extensions you can not get them wet straight aware so talk to your beauty and hair stylist when booking)

THE BIG EVENT!

1. Have dry hair unless instructed otherwise (or having a blow dry)
2. Have no make up on but a freshly washed face with moisturiser
3. Have spare bobby pins (you may be given touch up pins)
4. Have touch up lipstick (you can purchase from your make-up artist to get the best colour match to your make-up palette)
5. Have touch up hair spray (travel size great to take with you- ask your stylist)
6. Let your stylists know if anything needs adjusting

Oh and....................

HAVE A GREAT TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't forget to send your stylist and make-up artist pictures of your day! It is wonderful to see the end result when it has all come together!!!

How to do a simple side bun style!

Simple side bun style with a braided feature

For this style I have pr- braided and taken a section of about 4cm underneath and used an alligator clip to hold the top hair away (alligator clips will be your best friend!).

Upstyles work best on slightly dirty hair or if washed lightly blow dry some product (light hold hairspray or something with a little stick) into the hair prior to styling.

I have created a low pony tail on the opposite side to the biggest braid to off set braid visually when looking from the front.

I have used two large pins attached to an elastic. Watch my Quick Tip video on how to secure this. It makes the style more secure and if using curls in a style it makes it easier not to disturb them too much.

Now let down the top section of the hair. You can use back combing technique to make this as full as you like. This time I am having it with out back combing.

             

We then take the top section and brush to pull together to then wrap around the ponytail.

Then back comb the ponytail to give fullness and texture and randomly pin inside the bun picking up some hair from underneath to secure it. 

Make sure you are checking all sides of the style for balance. If you want to be adventurous you could curl the ends and pin randomly or wrap into a knot with ends out.

I hope you like this style and again easy break down and pins hidden! Dont forget to view this style and subscribe to my You Tube channel
 Sarah Courtney Hair Education and like my videos!!!

Happy Hair Day!

My hair is falling out.....Is this normal?????

I was inspired by the beautiful story on Today Tonight with a young girl getting amazing results from Chinese Herbal Medicine for Alopecia Areata (a form of hair loss).

This is one of many stories but in the salon it is a regular question....My hair is falling out. Is this normal?

My first piece of advice would be to first talk with your hairdresser and secondly if you are still concerned see your doctor as each case is individual. 

Hairdressers can give advice on the subject but doctors can do appropriate tests to determine if it is something more.

Alopecia is the technical term for hair loss and there are different variations of this. Alopecia Areata is when hair falls out in one or more patches and can be hereditary. For More information on Alopecia Areata follow the link.

What most people don't realise is we have a natural hair growth cycle and hair "falling out" or "shedding" is part of that cycle.

There are 3 phases of this cycle

Anagen
Catagen
Telogen

Each persons Hair Growth Cycle is different and lasts for different periods of time to the next person.

The Anagen stage is the growth phase and can last from 2-6 years. The longer in this stage, the longer the hair. This is why some people complain an dsay their hair won't grow as they may have a shorter Anagen stage.

The Catagen stage is the transitional phase where the cell division stops and the hair gets ready for the next stage. This lasts for approximately one week.

The Telogen stage is the resting stage. This is the phase where you hair falls out (shedding) to make room for new hair. This phase lasts for about 1 month.



So, Yes, hair falling out is a normal process but if you notice anything out of the ordinary ask for more advice! Stress and internal health are a very big factors in excessive hair loss and if you have concerns ask your hairdresser and doctor as there are ways to treat or help with excessive hair loss.

Hope you have found this information helpful!
Happy Hair Day!

From Sarah Courtney

How to do a high bun style!

Messy bun with braided feature

This style is simple once broken down but very effective.

Subsribe and watch Sarah Courtney Hair Artist on You Tube for this and more styles!

Firstly, if you haven't already watch my Sarah Courtney's Quick Tip on back combing . Like and subscribe for more videos.

 I have sectioned from ear to ear 4 cm from front hairline. I have braided these sections from an off center part.

I Have created a high pony tail on top of the head using a banded bobby pin (see my coming You Tube Clip). I then wrapped the ends of the braids around the pony tail and pinned randomly.

You now back comb the pony tail and give fullness and texture to the bun. you can pin hair extensions underneath the ponytail or use hair donuts for more fullness if desired.

Pull some of the back combing to the front to create an arc to give something to pin to and start the shape of the bun. You can now pin randomly into the ends to get desired shape with out being too flat. Use hair spray through out the style and  a nice shine spray for a natural sheen to the hair. 

 

For variations of this style you can do a different braid, pull out of loosen the braid, curl the front and brush to create waves or even have straight panels.

Happy Hair Day!

Simple Twist Back Style

Simple Twist Back Style

This is a simple twisted back style to incorporate a bit of a bun at the back. Took a few pictures of the style that I wore to work the other day!

First thing is first! Check out my you tube Channel and watch the correct technique for back combing....
Sarah Courtney's Quick Tip for back combing

You can create as much height on top as you like but this time I just did slight height on top as most people don't like HUGE HAIR like I would normally wear it!

I have sectioned out on the head block so you can see the lines clearly and as my You Tube video will shortly follow, you wont have my arms in the way if done on myself.

Firstly create a halo section and clip away. Alligator clips will be your best friend. Most important thing about hair is to section away hair you don't need and it makes your life so much simpler.I have also parted off center at the front but you can work it to suit you. 

Not only will alligator clips be your best friend but good bobby pins!!! You can get the regular size but also a half size. These are great to help hide pins when it doesn't have to hold a lot of hair. You can ask your hairdresser for best way to get your hands on some or I can help! 

Taking a small mesh (panel)of hair starting at the top and front hairline to part, slightly back comb or tease to get a little height. This also helps to get good hold to the style. Watch my above back comb/ teasing video  for pointers.

Follow all the way around the halo until complete. Spray each section very lightly with hair spray to give hold.

Then lightly comb top of section to hide teasing underneath. you then use the hair to create a twist at the side nearly braiding (if up to the challenge) by picking up smaller pieces from back.

Pin inside the twist and repeat on other side. If unsure where to pin this part will be hidden so put as many pins as you like and overlapping is good to get great hold.

Let down the top section out of the clip and start to back comb/tease it also. Start at the front but for your first section only tease a little so it hides other teasing. Do more teasing in second and third section and this will determine the height you want. Follow through until you get to the twists and run out of hair.

Again lightly brush/ comb over the top and pull all hair together. A tail comb is best as you can also use the end to pull up hair on top if you flatten too much when brushing.

You can pin section down to twists or add a little twist to section as you pin. What ever is easier for each person.

All top hair is now pinned and all that is left is the bottom tails. Roll them around your finger to start and continue to roll up to make a small barrel with ends in.

I have used a flat clip to make it easier to pin.

Look closely at this pic to see where I have two pins out. This is where you pin first. 

Put as many pins as you like. 

Normal size pins first but then the half size ones are really good if you have them.

Our finished style!!!!!!!! 

Watch the video for this simple twist back style and subscribe to my channel and like my video!

Just a few more tips.....

1.  use hair spray lightly after each section finished and use the need of you tail comb or brush even to smooth down fluffy hair.
2. a texture powder is good for more volume
3. slightly dirty hair is best as not as soft
4. Things to make your life easier- tail comb, flat clip and alligator clip and good bobby pins
5. shine spray is good to finish off a style for higher gloss

This style takes me about 5 minutes..... yes I am a hairdresser so practice at home and don't stress to much first time round. Using the tips I have given you will be surprised how much easier it makes doing an upstyle on yourself.

You can also make a variation of a messy, randomly pinned bun at the back if easier or braiding front panels instead of twists. Possibilities are endless.

Keep an eye out for the You tube Clip, Like it and Subscribe to my channel!

Happy Hair Day!

Salon Questions...... Inspired to talk Shampooing!

My Salon Questions today revolved around...................

SHAMPOOING!

While in the salon today I had a few questions based around shampooing the hair and I was inspired! Here are some questions I would nearly get on a daily basis. Every person is different and as a hairdresser, would ask a series of questions to each person to work out each individual case.

How much shampoo should I use?

How much shampoo you use depends on your hair length and the quality of the product you are using. If using a salon shampoo you will use less as it is a more concentrated product and goes further. A few good tips.....

1. Use an afro comb in the shower (be gentle as hair is fragile when wet) to comb through product to ends reducing the amount of product you use
2. Shampoo twice, doing two smaller shampoos (first shampoo removes outer oil and second shampoo opens up hair and cleans inside. It will also froth more.) You will use less doing two small shampoos rather than one big one and cleanse hair more thoroughly.
3. Use a leave in moisturizer give more moisture, higher shine and less fuzz with continual use.
4. Use deep conditioning treatments especially when colouring hair as treatments will return strength to hair that colour can damage.

Example of size;  I have a bob just above the shoulders with fine hair. I use around a 10-20 cent piece size for first shampoo (depending on hairspray I have used as I am a hairspray addict) and a 10 cent piece size for the second shampoo.

How often should I shampoo my hair?

The one thing with washing hair is sometimes it is different for each person depending on scalp, hair colouring and hair condition. I recommend around every second day to twice a week. Sometimes you can wash your hair too much which removes the oil from the scalp and dries your hair out. You need this oil to moisturize your scalp and hair as well as regular brushing. Brushing moves the oil down the hair shaft to give your hair shine and close the outer layer of the hair to lock the moisture inside.

A leave in moisturizer also helps with keeping moisture in the hair. It is like using a moisturizer on the face. You also need to moisturize your hair. there are different types for different hair types including sprays, creams and foam forms.

Some people find they have oilier hair and have to wash everyday. In some cases this is the cause for oily hair. When you wash your hair and scalp you remove the oil on your scalp which is needed to moisture the scalp and hair shaft. This causes the oil glands or sebaceous gland to over react and then produce more oil. Creating a vicious cycle.

 In other cases in can be hormonal but talk to your hairdresser as there are many questions to ask in each individual case. A dry shampoo can help you reduce washing and reduce the oily appearance.

Also be aware of product sensitivity as this is a leading cause to oily and/ or irritated scalp.

Why does my scalp get itchy between washes?

There are many reasons for this but one of the main reasons that I find is the oil on the scalp attracts dirt and product which collects on the scalp. This then irritates the scalp and can cause redness and itching. It just means the hair needs a wash as there are things on the scalp that shouldn't be there.

It also can be due to shampoo choice and some chemicals in products that people develop a sensitivity to.

One last thing.......

Just remember using a good quality shampoo will save you money in the long run. The outlay is more but you will use less (especially using the above tips), reduce fading as the cleansing agents are gentler and give more moisture and strength due to the higher grade ingredients. If you were to experiment and see how much it works out to buy generic shampoo for a week and a bottle of salon shampoo that would last 3-4 months, your weekly dollar average should actually be less. An interesting experiment for you to try!

Have a Happy Hair Day!

Introduction to Sarah and Hair Education

A bit about Sarah and love for hair!

 

Hi everyone! For those who don't know me my name is Sarah Courtney. I have a passion for hair and a thirst for knowledge. I love to learn and I love to share the knowledge.

I have been hairdressing since 1999 and bought the salon I worked at in 2003. In 2006 I changed the name to Urban Hi-Lights. I grew my business to add beauty services and then into mobile wedding services and have worked with some amazing people.

In October 2012 I sold my salon to some amazing people based in Brisbane happy for our team to continue doing what we do! I am to assist in managing and stay on with my great team as well as brain storm some new adventures. This has also allowed me to take time away for my beautiful family.

While in business I was always learning including business courses and seminars and getting formal qualifications. Some of my experience includes;

• Certificate IV in Hairdressing
• Diploma in Hair Salon Management
• Certificate IV in Training and Assessment
• Certificate II in Make-up Services
• Brow and Lash artist including lash extensions
• Hair extensions

 Along the way my salon team and I have done many wedding expos, bridal fashion parades and wedding hair seminars at some great bridal events. We also have hosted education evenings at Urban Hi-Lights but with technology coming such a long way I had a great idea........

Those who know me, know I can't sit still for very long and my brain is always ticking for the next new adventure with hair. Well this is it! I am getting a little hi-tech and starting my blog and YouTube channel to help educate everyday people on how to care for and manage their hair at home.

As a hairdresser the most asked questions are "how to" questions when someone walks out of the salon and gets home........"How do I blow dry my hair" or "How do I do a basic upstyle with long hair so I don't get bored".

I love bridal hair but also realize that not every person is a hairdresser and it isn't that simple for most people. I AM HERE TO HELP!!!!!

I will be creating some how to videos and posting them onto my YouTube channel which you can like and subscribe to! You can also find me and photos of my work at the following places;

www.sarahcourtneyhairartist.com
www.facebook.com/sarahcourtneyhairartist
www.instagram.com/sarahcourtneyhairartist#
www.youtube.com/user/SarahCourtneyHair
www.twitter.com/sarahhairartist
www.urbanhi-lights.com 

Looking forward to helping others in their hair adventure!!!! I also show case some of my bridal work but won't be giving every secret away. I am also happy to answer any questions or concerns you might have via email or my pages.